Lei Pūpū: The Art and Ancestry of Niʻihau Shell Lei
At first glance, a lei pūpū may seem like a simple string of shells—but to those who understand its origins, it is a legacy of craftsmanship, geography, and cultural endurance. These shell lei, traditionally created on the island of Niʻihau, are among Hawaiʻi’s most intricate and highly prized forms of lei. Each strand is a testament to generational knowledge, featuring shells like kahelelani and momi, painstakingly gathered and sorted by hand.
Kahelelani shells, named after an aliʻi of Niʻihau, are among the smallest shells used in lei making. Their vivid range of colors—reds, purples, greens, and even rare blacks—makes them especially sought after. These shells are so tiny that thousands may be needed for a single multi-strand lei. The work involved in collecting, cleaning, sorting by color, and piercing each shell with a fine needle is both time-consuming and deeply respected.
Momi shells, meaning “pearl” in Hawaiian, bring a softer, lustrous tone to the lei. More rounded than kahelelani, momi shells come in creamy whites, grays, and golden browns. They often serve as the base or filler shells in designs, and when woven in the pīkake or wili styles, they can resemble delicate buds of jasmine.
Historically, lei pūpū were not merely decorative—they were treasured gifts, heirlooms, and symbols of aloha and ʻohana. Shell gathering was once restricted to specific shorelines and required deep environmental awareness, as many of the shells used are not living specimens but rather empty shells washed ashore. The ability to distinguish between viable shells and protect the ecosystem is part of the kuleana (responsibility) held by lei makers today.
Niʻihau shell lei are legally protected under state law, and to be labeled “Niʻihau shell lei,” the piece must contain at least 80% shells from Niʻihau. This ensures that the legacy of the island, its people, and its environment is honored and preserved.
To wear or gift a lei pūpū is to carry forward a tradition that connects land, sea, and people—one shell at a time.
